New Year's Day Climb - Mount Saint Helens

We had initially planned to climb Mount Saint helens on 28th Dec, 2014. When we planned it, the weather looked just a little too cold for my liking, but it was forecast to be sunny. When the actual day came around, forecast changed to moderate to heavy snow. So, we canceled the climb and decided to do it on new year's day..weather permitting again :)

This is what the weather looked like for Dec 28th :(

 After spending the new year's eve at friend's house with few glasses of wine, I went to be at 2 AM in the morning. I always had a fear in the back of mind that will I be able to complete the climb? Will I be able to stay with group? Am I fit for this?

In contrast to what I have done in summer months, starting at the Climber's bivouac TH, in the winter we started at Marble Mountain Sno-park. This is whooping 1200 feet lower than Climber's Bivouac and adds ~2 miles to the distance. So, instead of 10 miles and elevation gain of 4500 feet in summer, this is going to be ~12 miles with 5700 feet of elevation gain. 

We started at around 8AM from the trail head. Snow was mostly packed on the trail as we walked towards the Chocolate Falls. At 2 miles, we crossed the Chocolate Falls. It was dry with no running water. Sun had already come up, which made it quite warm. Although the temperature was in lower 30s, we were feeling really hot and sweating like it was 80 degrees out there. Soon every one was in the base layers!

Around the Chocolate Falls crossing

Very Soon we came to the first weather station. It was time for a short break. I put on microspikes, as I was feeling a bit insecure in my footings.

At the weather station around 5600ft

After that I was a slog to the top. we crossed many people coming down. They must have started in the dark. Few of them, we had a long conversation with to inquire about the snow condition. As we went up, snow turned in the solid ice. It was time to put on some crampons around 6600ft.

Although we had said 1PM would be our turnaround time, considering the weather stayed perfectly sunny and warm, we tanked that proposal and kept going up even after 1PM. Finally, we made it to the summit at 2PM. It was time for celebration.

At the summit..Spirit Lake and Mt Rainer in the background

Again..Celebration at the summit

There were couple of backcountry skiers at the top

Happy New Year..What a way to welcome the new year!

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Mount Saint Helens Winter Climb

There is a bit of a story here. My group originally decided to climb Mount Saint Helens on Nov 2, 2014. Weather was looking good with clear sky and 25-30mph of summit wind for morning. We thought it would be fine and we will see and make decision as we get higher. That was the forecast! What we encountered was completely different. Constant rain on the lower elevation, higher wind. As we moved higher, rain turned into snow and wind got stronger and it seemed like reaching +50mph. The group still kept going, but eventually after ~7500feet, with less than 50feet of visibility and sideways snow and sleet, we decided to turn back. 

Anyway, that was a good learning. We all had a good time even though we were moving through wintery mix. Good group made it all possible. Everybody stayed strong and upbeat!

By Tuesday, after looking at the weather for next weekend, everyone came to a conclusion that it is time to finish what we started. So, here we go! November 8, 2014, we meet again at 5AM at a meeting place in Portland. Everyone excited to summit Mt Saint Helens. 

We started hiking at 8AM from climber's bivouac towards Monitor Ridge. I have been on the summit once before and counting the attempt on the week before this was my 3rd time. It seemed much easier than the first time. First thing that we noticed was the snow level has retreated quite a bit. We did not get into snow up until 7500feet. The weekend before, we were in the snow at 5000feet. Nothing too eventful on the way up or down. We got to the summit by 12 noon and spend around an hour soaking in the sun and the surroundings. 

At the summit of Mount Saint Helens

Crown Point Vistahouse

Vista house under full moon. I added a little bit light paining to this image to add some contrast.